Mystery, adventure, sunset on snow-capped mountains – isn’t it everything you dream of in a holiday? Throw in some physical exertion, lots of deep breathing, views of yaks’ rears, plus the most spectacular and inspiring scenery in the world and you’re on the trek to Everest in Nepal – the top of the world.

The summer monsoon happens from May to September and with it lots of rain and leeches. Consequently, it’s best to go in peak season from October to May. Once you’ve made your way to Kathmandu (1220 m), board the Cessna flight to Lukla (2800 m) where the trek begins. You will enjoy the 45-minute flight over remote villages nestling in valleys under the shadows of huge mountainous guardians, while sucking on a boiled lolly provided by the Nepalese stewardess. Nepali pilots will fly you into the dangerously short airstrip tightly surrounded by huge mountains. But don’t feel embarrassed that you’re terrified because so are the locals!

Here begins your 28-day trek to an altitude of 5640 m. But is it really the beginning? As any dedicated trekker knows, there have been months spent in preparation for your expedition. A list of your needs might include sleeping bag, gortex jacket, good boots, day pack, kitbag, thermal sleeping mat, down jacket and booties, numerous scarves and socks, thermal undies plus your personal gear. Most of the major companies will supply you with the big items at a good saving. But you really should buy your own trekking boots. There’s an art to this and once the pair is decided upon, it’s important to test them out before you leave the shop. As you’ll be doing lots of downhill walking, the ankles must be well supported, and toes must not touch the end of your boot when walking on a decline. It’s easy to test. Just walk down a ramp and see if your toes are comfortable. Having bought the boots, you can now have some fun wearing them in. That’s easy because you’ve got to begin your training at least three months ahead of your trek anyway.

The Everest Base Camp trek is called a Grade 4 Adventure and described in the brochures as ‘some stages taking up to ten hours walking a day but within the capabilities of most people…be ready to get very fit before departure’. A good way to begin is to walk or jog three times a week. Walking upstairs gets you used to uphill climbing, and adding a few kilos of weight into a backpack will make you work a bit harder. Wherever you are, you’ll be able to find some structure with enough steps to keep you going.

Back at Lukla and armed with iodine solution (to avoid poisoning), daypack and hat, it’s time to meet the crew with whom you will spend the next 28 days.

Everest (or Chomolungma as it is locally known) is situated in Sagarmatha National Park, north-east of Kathmandu on the Khumbu glacier. The park covers an area of 1243 square km and as well as Everest (at 8850 m), holds the giant peaks of Lhotse and Nuptse. Three thousand local Sherpa people originating from Tibet, live a life here based on the Buddhist ethos.

The vegetation will change dramatically over the nearly 350 km that you will walk. From Lukla to the park, pine and hemlock forest turns into fir and birch, and splashes of spring pink rhododendrons flourish along the track. As you move higher, scrub and alpine plants eventually succumb to bare rock, snow and magnificent ice formations on the glacial walk to Everest.

The first major settlement is Namche Bazaar. It’s a day’s walk from the overnight stop just outside Lukla, and it is one of the most challenging walks on the trek. The cliff faces are steep and the tracks narrow. When faced with yaks carrying 80 kg loads and travelling at great downhill speeds, it’s a good idea to get out of their way and cling rigidly to the inside of the hill.

At the top of one of these hills to Namche Bazaar is your first view of Everest. It’s a time to catch your breath out of necessity as well as awe, when this timeless and majestic beauty beckons. You are getting closer but it seems always to remain out of reach. Sup of coke and chocolate at the aptly named Everest View Teahouse, and watch tiny Nepalese boys quickly pass with their huge burdens of building materials attached by thick leather straps around their foreheads.

The evenings are spent languidly after a local meal in the mess tent, playing cards or chess, or chatting to the other members of the trek. Nights are early, as are mornings, and it’s from an altitude of between 3660 m and 4270 m that you might start feeling drowsy and slow (if you’re normally slow, you can happily blame the altitude!). The walking pace is as fast as the slowest person, which allays altitude problems. Soon, you are seeing the country that enthralled Edmund Hillary (just as it did son Peter early in 1990), and reminders of his presence occur along the well-worn track.

If it’s more of a climb that you’re interested in, you certainly have the opportunity. You can climb Island Peak at 6240 m. Described as a trekking peak, it can also be hazardous in icy conditions, so you should have rope handling and abseiling experience.

The walk across the glacier provides some breathtaking sights that somehow seem to have remained untouched. At Gorekshep, you can climb Kala Pattar at 5640 m. Even if you don’t go all the way up, you can get a special ‘close-up’ view of Everest. Bathed in the warm glow of the dying sun, Everest stands framed by snow covered siblings, just waiting to be conquered.