‘There’s an active volcano near Quito, you know,’ my travel agent informed me when I was booking my ticket. There were warnings of political unrest, poverty inspired crime and a dislike for gringos. Outpourings of ash from the volcano resulted in the closure of Quito airport a week before my departure. But there were plenty of gasmasks available. And I’d brought my own champagne.

Ecuador is a small South American country half the size of France and home to 12 million people. Colombia lies to the north, Peru to the south and east, and the Pacific Ocean crashes on its west coast. The magnificent Andes extend from north to south, and a large part of the country is uninhabited tropical jungle.

Created in an Incan setting in 1495, Hacienda Guachala is the oldest farm in Ecuador. It lies precisely on the Equator at 2,800 metres above sea level in the gorgeous Cayambe Valley just 110 km north of Quito. Guachala covers 20 hectares of undulating land from where you can clearly view Volcano Cayambe – at 5790 metres this is the highest point on the earth through which the Equator directly passes. This was to be my home with American friends for the next week – a new year’s eve party!

The hacienda is sprawling, ancient and rustic and at US$25 per night – a bargain. The restaurant, rooms, church and stables surround the inner courtyard of cobbled stones. To the back of the restaurant is the swimming pool housed in a greenhouse decorated with pink and orange bougainvillea. Partnering this humid area is a central room with logfire and bar in which the owner Diego Bonifaz recounts tales of the history of his family and the long life of the hacienda.

‘The Hacienda has been in my family since 1892,’ Diego, a Stanford University-educated Ecuadorian said. Owners have included Spanish nobles, the famous Borgia family and presidents – one in the Bonifaz family itself. Another former Ecuadorian president, Garcia Moreno, rented the Hacienda in 1868. In 1889, Vicente Tinajero, a moneylender of the time, bought Guachala at an auction and proceeded to hide 50,000 pounds sterling somewhere in the grounds. The treasure has never been found.

The rooms belie 20th century living with no television or telephone to disturb the twilight hours (although television, telephone and email are available in the main sitting area). Traditional Ecuadorian rugs decorate the walls and cover the log wood beds. Bathrooms are comfortable and adjoin twin, double and family suites. Breakfast is a healthy mix of delicious local bread, eggs, bacon and passionfruit with cinnamon juice overlooking the main courtyard.

Our first group outing is to the natural hot springs at Oyacachi – a two-hour drive in a jeep over unsealed roads winding through spectacular mountains. Once in Oyacachi, we walk across a swaying footbridge to find the hot springs – underground pools that spew 35-degree sulphureous and ferruginous volcanic water. After bathing for a couple of hours in the hot mineral waters, we head back to the town. We come across a group of indigenous Indians who are offering a lunch of trout, salad, and coke for $1 and gladly partake.

The ride back in the jeep is cold and bumpy. The mountains rise up all around us. High on hilltops, Indians farm their small plots of land donated by the government. Their colourful voluminous skirts and distinctive hats dot the mountainsides as we hit one pothole after another.

The Hacienda horses are available to ride through the grounds and into the outlying areas. There is prolific evidence of a former owner’s love of Eucalyptus and Agapanthus. Other activities include hiking, mountain climbing, white water rafting and mountain bike riding for the more adventurous. For those interested in culture the pre-Incan ruins and museums are worth a look, or a siesta in a hammock by the pool may be more appealing.

Two other towns near Cayambe are Cotacachi well known for its cheap leather, and Otavalo, a fascinating Indian market town abuzz with locals and tourists looking for colourful craft and jewellery. This outdoor bazaar shows a country teeming with colour, culture, ancient heritage and charm – even with the risks thrown in. By the way, the volcano didn’t erupt and I didn’t need that facemask.

Hacienda Guachala is in Cayambe, 110 km north of Quito, Ecuador. For details, phone 593-2-363-042, fax 593-2-362-426 or email: guachala@uio.satnet.net

Wonderful rustic ambience and plenty of activities. Very relaxing and security is not an issue.
Although the owner speaks English fluently, the staff don’t. If you speak Spanish, it’s a huge advantage.